Gifts for Home Cooks: Six Worth Giving, $18 to $400

Microplane's blades are photo-etched from stainless steel in the United States, which is why they cut rather than tear. The Premium Classic takes the zest off a lemon and leaves the bitter pith behind, turns Parmesan into a soft heap, and grates ginger, garlic and nutmeg without a fight.

It is the cheapest thing here and probably the one that gets used most. A cook who owns an old one will not mind a second, since a Microplane is the kind of tool that lives in the utensil jar rather than the drawer.

Skip it only for someone who already has the same tool in near-new condition. Rinse it straight after use; dried cheese is the enemy.

The catch. Small and inexpensive, so pair it with something else if it is the whole gift.

Maldon has made its pyramid-shaped sea salt flakes in Essex since 1882, and the flakes are the reason chefs keep it by the stove. They crumble between the fingers and add a clean crunch to a steak, a tomato or a chocolate cookie.

Most people buy the small 8.5 ounce box and ration it. The 3.1 pound tub is the gift: enough to use freely for many months, in a container sized for a serious kitchen. It is consumable, so it adds no clutter to a full cupboard.

Skip it for someone who has moved on to a salt they prefer. For everyone else, it is the easiest yes on this list.

The catch. A tub this size is a lot of salt for someone who cooks twice a week.

MAC's Chef Series is where many professional cooks start with Japanese knives. The blade is 2 millimeters thick, made in Japan from molybdenum steel that holds its edge, with a pakka wood handle. At 7 1/4 inches it is a nimble size for a home cutting board.

A thin blade like this goes through an onion or a carrot with far less effort than a heavy German knife, and most cooks notice the difference on the first night. MAC USA covers defects in materials and workmanship for 25 years.

Skip it for someone attached to a heavy Western knife who uses it to hack through bones and squash. A thin Japanese edge can chip under that treatment. Hand wash only.

The catch. Not for bones, frozen food or hard winter squash; the fine edge can chip.

A braiser is the pan most cooks buy after the Dutch oven: wide and shallow, so chicken thighs or short ribs brown in one layer and then finish in the oven with the lid on. Staub's 3.5 quart version is made in France, oven safe to 500°F, and works on every stovetop, induction included.

The interior is Staub's matte black enamel, which is textured for browning and does not show stains. This version comes with a glass lid, so the cook can watch a braise without lifting it. It goes to the table as well, which counts for a host.

Skip it for a cook who wants to judge fond by color. The black interior hides it; that is the case for the Le Creuset below.

The catch. Heavy, like all cast iron, and the glass lid is less robust than Staub's own cast-iron lids.

Le Creuset's Signature Braiser is the pan in countless cookbook photographs, and it earns the place. The smooth, light-colored interior enamel makes it easy to see browning and to judge when a sauce is reduced. The lid is shaped to return steam to the food, and the stainless steel knob is safe at any oven temperature.

Le Creuset makes its cast iron in France and says it is the lightest by quart on the market, which matters when a full braiser comes out of a hot oven. White suits any kitchen and any table.

Skip it if the recipient already has a Le Creuset Dutch oven and cooks for two; the Staub or a skillet may be more use. The price is the real downside: you pay about double the Staub for a lighter interior and a better lid.

The catch. About $400, and a light interior shows wear and staining over the years in a way black enamel does not.